The rise of vinyl dining sees Sydney restaurants spend big on sound systems

2022-09-24 03:21:20 By : Mr. Zhaobing Wang

Sydney restaurants are spending big on sound as they seek to elevate the dining experience from dinner table to dance floor.

Chef Matt Moran has invested close to $100,000 in state-of-the-art audiovisual equipment for his latest venture Rekōdo, a vibey Barangaroo venue that blurs the line between restaurant and bar.

"I have never spent so much money on speakers in a restaurant," says Elliot Solomon, chief executive officer hospitality group Solotel, which worked with Moran on the project. 

"Music used to play second fiddle in restaurants, but there's this new interest in sound and having a really good sound system."

Klipsch La Scala speakers, acoustic attenuation, live DJs and thoughtful vinyl soundtracks curated by multi award-winning artists such as Meg Mac "will take it to another level", says Solomon. 

The concept taps into a global trend inspired by the listening bars (or jazzu kissa) of post-war Japan, when cash-strapped music fans crowded into tiny venues to hear the latest records on high quality speakers.

Newtown restaurant and sake bar ANTE has been spinning co-owner Matt Young's 2500-strong vinyl collection since opening in January.

ANTE's build incorporated acoustic properties such as ceiling panels, wall panels, wood floors and a wood bar.

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"Music is integral to how we operate," says Young. 

"It was at the forefront of our design process. We spent a lot of money on it."

While having to manually change records can lead to "awkward silences" during peak service, Young says it allows staff to "curate the vibe".

President of the Australian Music and Psychology Society Amanda Krause says a good "musical fit" can have a dramatic effect.

"What you're hearing can influence your dining experience and that includes the taste of the food you're eating as well as the perceived texture," she says.

Krause explains this field of research, called gastrophysics, demonstrates how tempo, genre and audio quality can be used to influence everything from "bites per minute" to consumer spend.

Conversely, a poor fit can prevent diners from "not only staying, but also whether or not they revisit."

For some venues, such as The Hive in Erskineville, audience participation has proven key. The neighbourhood bar and burger joint has been playing vinyl records to a loyal customer base since 2009.

"We encourage people to bring their own vinyl," says co-owner Nikki Vircoe.

"Serious record collectors come in, share their music, and feed off the crowd."

Edmondson Park's newest venue, Korean BBQ and soju bar BaaOinkMoo (BOM), pairs hundreds of disco balls and neon lights with a K-pop soundtrack to create a "loud and energetic" dining destination. 

"When people were able to eat out again they were looking for more than a static dining experience," says co-founder Bailey Wang. 

Sometimes this is better left to the experts. Nightlife is a professional music streaming service which carefully curates soundtracks for Sydney restaurants such as Bennelong and Aria.

Head of music and content Matthew Lymbury says business is booming as fast casual and mid tier restaurants recognise the importance of music. 

"We have always worked with those higher end [hospitality groups, such as Merivale], but now we're seeing that trend trickle down," he says.

"People are realising how much power music can have. It can bring a venue alive or rebrand it entirely."